February 27, 2012 – Finally doing it right!
When I made my 18th c. costume last year, the only undergarments I bothered to make were my stays and a small bum roll. This year, I decided that I wanted to do it right. lol. As my stays from last year fit just fine, I won’t be making another set. I have decided that I must make a proper shift (I wore my Regency chemise last year), a set of pockets, a petal bum pad, a “Puffer” (copied what The American Duchess did), and a proper under petticoat. My underpetticoat is a simple one. Just 4 pieces of bleached muslin, sewn together, leaving pocket slits on the sides and pleated to 2 pieces of twill tape so that it will tie in the front and the back, in the period correct manner. I have not hemmed it yet. I want to make sure Jane is at the correct height before taking that measurements.
Next, we have “The Puffer”. lol. This is a great little costumer cheat, and I found it on The American Duchess’ site. I was going to make mine from some natural colored pre-quilted cotton, but am apparently out. So, I used what I had on hand, black pre-quilted, as I didn’t want to make a trip out for it. I cut about a yard and a half, cutting that along the fold to make the front and back panels, as I didn’t want a long puffer. Now, The Duchess gaterhed her’s to her waistband. I hate to gather, don’t know why. So, I pleated mine to a narrow twill tape, leaving the front flat for about 4″ to either side of center front. After that it was just a matter of hemming and finishing the pocket slits I left on the sides. Done!
For my shift and pockets, I used Simplicity 3635. The pockets are a breeze, and took about an hour to machine sew. Yes, I cheated. Mine are completely machine sewn. lol. I used bias tape to finish the edges. But, they came out very nice. I just forgot to take pics of them. As for my shift, I had traced the pattern out several years ago, in the size that is suggested for my bust measurements, as size 22. When I pulled the pattern pieces out, I could see right away that they were too big. I down sized to a size 18, and started cutting. I made this on 2/19/12, didn’t bother to try it on, and just draped it over a hanger. When I put it on Saturday to try on my stays, I discovered several things. #1 – a size 18 was still too large, #2 – the sleeves were about 4″ too long and #3 – the placement for the sleeves caused them to be way too tight, almost painfully too tight. This past Saturday, I ripped off the sleeves and sleeve gussets, I cut 4″ off the top of the sleeves (as I didn’t want to have to re-hem the bottom of the sleeves), placed the sleeves back on where I wanted them, and then commenced to taking in the center front and center back of the shift until it was the correct size. I do believe I took this in about 3-4″ total. Basically, I should’ve just cut a size 14. I still need to find a thin white lace for the neckline.
For my petal bum pad, I quickly drafted a pattern and cut it from some bleached muslin. I made this all one piece, sewing in the seperation once I turned it right side out. I used a thin twill tape for the ties, and poly-fil for the stuffing. I would normally hand sew this closed, but I was feeling a tad on the lazy side and ran it under the machine. lol. It came out pretty nice, and will give my already sizable bum a bigger look. lol. After I get my dress and petticoat put together (but not hemmed), I will decided if it is the right shape and size. If I don’t like it, it’ll be back to the drawing board. 😉